Webb AB1474 clutch?

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  • #36747
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Hi can anyone help with a Webb A1474 clutch issue. Fitted a new clutch cable that pulls on an arm and think it’s supposed to push some sort of pin into the drive mechanism under the side plate. Problem is the pin appears to be seized as the arm just pulls up against the pin and nothing happens. Any ideas what I have to do to unseize it? Or am I guessing wrong and the pin isn’t supposed to move. Thanks for any help or advice. I found the mower in a field and have rebuilt it but the clutch system looks too complicated for me !

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    #36749
    wristpin
    Participant

    This may help. The hand written notes were probably added about 20/25 years ago which was probably about the last time that I worked on one!

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    #36753
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Nice one thank you.
    Managed to get the pin free and it now moves the gear plate back and forth as it should 😁

    Just gotta get it started now.

    #36758
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Wristpin not sure if you can help with this. I’ve fitted a new clutch cable that Jon in Hailsham made up for me, but when I’ve shortened it as far as the threaded barrel will allow, it’s not pulling up far enough to pull the arm against the pin that was seized. Can’t move the mower cos everything is locked up and won’t rotate. Any idea if the pin is worn and now not long enough to be pushed on by the clutch arm or pin is still slightly seized and not poking out far enough or maybe the arm is worn and not wide enough to engage with the pin? Tried googling what the pin length should be but nothing comes up using Webb’s old part numbers. Sorry long question, but at the mo I’m stumped as to what to next ! Cheers.

    #36760
    wristpin
    Participant

    A lot easier to sort with the metal in front of one but referring to the parts illustration that I’ve already posted, try the following.
    I doubt if the pin (push rod 29) is worn enough to cause your problem but remove the pressure plate (42) and push the pin right through the clutch shaft (32) taking care not to loose the ball bearing (40) – always assuming that it is not missing. If it is missing it’s probably the cause of your problem. Clean any rust and dried grease from the bore of the shaft, lubricate and reassemble the pin and ball. If the end of the pin is worn concave where it bears on the ball, just reverse it. With it all reassembled pull up and lock the handle bar clutch lever and then check that the pressure plate is releasing the sprocket(35)from the clutch body(34). If it’s not. Release the locknut (47) and screw in the adjusting grub screw (46) until it just lifts the pressure plate from the sprocket and that the sprocket is free from the body. With the handle bar clutch lever released and the pressure plate clamping onto the sprocket, there should be a little slack in the cable.
    Another possible issue is that the handlebar lever locking latch is worn and although the clutch is releasing when the lever is squeezed bu hand, when your hand is released the locking latch is not holding the clutch fully disengaged.

    #36761
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    That’s brilliant !
    I’ll be onto it over the weekend and fingers crossed I will sort it with your advice.
    Really appreciate you taking the time to write such a comprehensive post 👍

    #36762
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    Wristpin Sir you are a genius !! Decided to have a look today and did exactly as you said. The plate was rusted on the friction caps so had to clean all that up too. The grub screw snapped but got a cap head in there instead of. Built it back up and adjusted the ball in further and all works as it should ! Can now roll the mower about which is a huge relief on my back. Got to go turn some new ash rollers now and then attack the carb.

    Thank you so much for your help….without you it was going in the skip 😁

    #36766
    vhgmcbuddy
    Member

    All running now. Amazingly it sat in a field under a tree for probably 10 years and it started 2nd pull and runs sweet as anything. Blades spin and stop as they should, drive works great as well. Just the new rollers to drill out, varnish and fit. Then decide if I go the whole hog and paint it or leave it as is. Either way, it will go to work now and hopefully last a few more years.

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