Oil change on Hayter 10/30

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This topic contains 24 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by  wristpin 1 month, 2 weeks ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 25 total)
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  • #36071

    julesuk
    Participant

    I have a hayter 10/30 ride on. A superb single blade gear shift ride on.

    The issue is when it comes to oil changes the drain plug is so inaccessible I have never managed to not cover the LHS in oil draining it.

    I have tried a machine that sucks it out from the filler but it I am sure never gets all the oil out.

    Has anyone solved how to drain oil with an inaccessible drain plug where you cannot catch it ??

    I almost need a pipe to extend to a container. anyone mastered this ?

    Attachments:
    #36074

    julesuk
    Participant

    Dont understand I post then look back at site and no text or pics are present?

    any ideas why ?

    #36075

    julesuk
    Participant

    I’ll try again.
    any idea how I get the oil out of this drain plug into a container ?
    it is so inaccessible I cannot do this ever without getting the frame covered in oil

    Attachments:
    #36092

    wristpin
    Participant

    Using a proper vacuum extractor with the machine tipped towards the base of the filler tube gets most of the oil out and if changed regularly what’s left is not worth worrying about.
    Alternatively get a quick release drain valve. Tip the machine away from the drain plug and fit the valve . Then, when it comes to change time, warm the engine, push a tube onto the valve with the other end in a catch can, and twist the valve to release the oil.
    A brick under each of the row opposite wheels helps in both cases.

    #36094

    julesuk
    Participant

    Superb idea. I never new such things as oil drain valves were even available.

    I do have a good engine oil pump that sucks it out but my old mower deserves a good clean out…..

    I’ll check the size and thread today. I dont suppose you can recommend a good oil drain valve ? … must be
    old imperial thread on a Briggs and Stratton

    • This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by  julesuk.
    #36097

    julesuk
    Participant

    Checked thread and ordered
    a oregon oil drain valve.

    I am ok on metric threads but the older ones … I am clueless.

    I measured drain bolt as m18*1.5 (roughly as I couldn’t take it fully out)

    imperial (or whatever it’s called) it looked like 3/8″

    so I ordered
    3/8″-18 NPTF (National Pipe Taper Fuel) thread which is standard for these valves.

    I assume the 18 means mm.

    #36098

    wristpin
    Participant
    #36100

    julesuk
    Participant

    Thanks… I shouldn’t have been so hasty ordering as I have this one from amazon. hate using amazon as it didnt truly say where it was coming from and full price when searched. prefer ebay. damn.
    But whatever my oldish 10/30 now needs a mechanics care
    to keep it going. Not as old as some on here I’m sure but hell is it a ideal mower for a medium sized garden.

    q)I have been putting in 5/30 semi synth but feel
    I should be putting in sae 30 non multigrade stuff.

    What’s the thoughts on oil for above 5deg c mowing ?

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0018U48XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_yM3YFb9MQKKRW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

    #36102

    wristpin
    Participant

    Briggs always used to recommend a straight SAE 30 and I still use it in earlier/ worn engines but they now say that 10/30 is acceptable. Synthetic ok but a waste of money.
    Don’t be too quick to knock Amazon, I’ve just purchased a set of genuine BS piston rings via them for far less than the UK TRADE price – crazy!

    #36103

    julesuk
    Participant

    What a site this is! Us people where mowers have a name and have become part of the family couldn’t survive without em.
    My last post was when I bust the transaxle on this mower. Due to the help on this site I / we diagnosed it and had to get a second hand one.

    I still think if it goes again I am gonna have to; like for spitfire parts, get one made. Do we have a resident obsessional engineer on the site who can make drive shafts …..
    madly I used to live next door to a guy who could in his garage ! alas he looks down us now.

    thanks for help all.
    concerns me however when no parts become available !

    #36116

    charlie
    Keymaster

    so I ordered
    3/8″-18 NPTF (National Pipe Taper Fuel) thread which is standard for these valves.
    I assume the 18 means mm.

    The 18 refers to pitch of thread, 18 threads per inch (tpi). There are so many different threads it would fill a book.

    #36117

    julesuk
    Participant

    I did once know about all the threads but after a few years all forgotten.

    Hopefully it will fit …..
    will inform .

    #36118

    ssorthiek
    Participant

    If you can put a photo of the drive shaft on this post then I might be willing to have a go at making one, depending on how complicated it is. I’m starting to get into machining again and looking for simple projects. I suspect that this will have splines and will probably be a step too far for me at this stage, but lets see what’s involved.

    #36119

    julesuk
    Participant

    I of course think if you can ….. you must try ………
    It might be a project ?
    It seems to be a 8″ long bar ? and cogs slipped onto it.
    I am yet to look further at it as i got another.

    I did put a post on here for my old transaxle but i cant find it.

    I attach some pics and have the old transaxle still.
    I can send details if you request.
    Be great to at least know if on paper you could do it ?

    Attachments:
    #36125

    ssorthiek
    Participant

    This certainly looks possible, what sort of diameter is it and how quickly do you need it. I guess there are bearings on the shaft and that’ll be the more difficult bit with tight tolerances for an interference fit and to get a smooth enough finish. They keyway shouldn’t be too much of an issue. What neck of the woods to you live in? I’m up North, Charlie might be able to give you my details.

    If I can’t, most machine shops should be able to make one if they have the original part as a pattern.

    The big issue for me is do you know what caused this to snap in the first place, it looks as if it must have been quite a load on this shaft for it to snap on the larger diameter. Also is the machine going to be used at it’s full capacity since any part machined is likely to be weaker than the original part.

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