New Trusty Greyhound Transfer

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This topic contains 6 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by  trusty220 1 week, 5 days ago.

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  • #36511

    trusty220
    Keymaster

    Here’s something for all you Trusty owners and enthusiasts. I’ve just managed to buy some original transfers and one of them is the Trusty Greyhound one that sticks on the right hand side of the plough headstock. If you’ve never seen one I’ve included a picture of the inside page of the spiral bound brochure so that you can see it in position; and no, that isn’t Mrs. Geoff driving it before you ask!

    Now, here’s the question- if I were to get a batch professionally made how many of you would be interested in buying one or two for your tractors? I’m only asking to get some idea of how much interest there would be.

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    #36522

    trusty220
    Keymaster

    A little more information before you commit. By the time I’ve paid for the artwork it looks like I’ll have to charge about £7.50 each; they will be very high quality vinyl stickers rather than waterslide transfers.

    Is anyone interested? I won’t hold you to it if you decide to change your mind later.

    #36524

    trusty-mad
    Participant

    Id be interested. Were these put on all the plough headstocks or just the ones sold with the greyhound plough?

    #36526

    trusty220
    Keymaster

    As far as I know they were a standard fitment on the headstock, Robert. When you consider most headstocks were sold with a plough underneath then added to at a later date with other attachments, that would probably mean that the majority had the sticker on.

    #36556

    kmacaoidh
    Participant

    I’d be tempted by those Greyhound plough stickers Geoff, if I ever get to that degree of finish on the Trusty equipments I have! Is it a set of stickers, one on both sides of the headstock, or just the one? Also, are the stickers set for the tractor still available? It would make sense to get the lot when we’re at it? I’ll keep an eye on progress.

    #36557

    trusty220
    Keymaster

    There was only one fitted to the right hand side of the headstock. The left hand side had a maker’s plate rivetted in the place it would go.

    I can combine the postage if you want a set of Trusty transfers as well as a Greyhound one; I still have a few Trusty waterslide transfers left. For prices see the Classified Adverts in the back of The Cultivator.

    #36649

    trusty220
    Keymaster

    I’m told that the artwork for these stickers is nearly finished so I’ve taken a little time out to fettle up a headstock to put the first one onto. I had the idea that I would make up a display of all of the Trusty tools that fit to the headstock, so this is the first stage.

    I don’t know about you, but it’s ages since I’ve tried to get one of these apart and it certainly brought back many unhappy memories struggling with this one. All of the bolt-on parts came off easily but where I always struggle is getting the pin out of the front casting to separate the front from the back. The pin normally rusts itself to the casting and you just cannot get enough heat into it to get the pin to move- until now, that is! Back to the farm with a few wooden pallets I went, filled up the oil drum with them, chucked a bit of old hay in to get it started then go for a cup of tea. By the time I came back it had settled down to a lovely red glow all around the drum with a thick covering of hot embers across the bottom. I put the headstock in (minus the aluminium cast pieces) and filled it up again with more pallet wood. After a short while the whole assembly was glowing red so I left it to burn out and cool down. That night the pin came out with a bit of persuasion from the lump hammer but it wasn’t easy- the technique is to knock it backwards and forwards, dosing it with oil and WD40 every time. Eventually it moves more and more until it comes out completely.

    I have now got it to the paint stage, so not long now!

    PS Normally using this technique I pull the red hot metal out of the fire and plunge it into the stream to crack the rust seal by using differential expansion/contraction. This works well if you have a steel fabrication but I didn’t trust it with cast iron; you only break it once!

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