Landmaster 88 with Aspera motor.

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This topic contains 8 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by  sidevalve44 1 month ago.

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  • #37891

    sidevalve44
    Participant

    Well, I’ve got the engine going, it started pretty well straight away but, it runs flat out only.

    Is this normal on one of these ?

    I’ve connected everything up as it was before and apart from cleaning, haven’t touched the carb, so I’m assuming this is how it should be.

    It also leaks fuel from the tap and the float chamber drain tickler so, a few more new parts needed !

    #37892

    wristpin
    Participant

    Sounds as though someone may have messed with the governor, hopefully only the external linkage and not a problem with the internal mechanism. A decent image of where the governor shaft emerges from the crankcase and the arm clamped to it will help with suggestions for resetting it.

    #37893

    sidevalve44
    Participant

    One reason why it may have been running flat out was I had not connected the gearbox. It has no clutch, so the drag of turning the gears would of course slow it down a bit.

    #37897

    wristpin
    Participant

    One reason why it may have been running flat out was I had not connected the gearbox. It has no clutch, so the drag of turning the gears would of course slow it down a bit.

    Na, erroneous thinking! Correctly set up that engine should start, idle and run at full throttle under governor control with no external load. Let’s see a decent image or two of the governor / throttle linkages.

    #37898

    sidevalve44
    Participant

    I think I may have cracked it. The Governor arm can be adjusted a little on the spindle to the left or right. I had a look and found it was too far to the left, meaning it was holding the throttle open at all times regardless.
    I slackened the screw and it moved slightly to the right and immediately the throttle shut. Operation now seems to be normal. It had probably got knocked at some time.
    Haven’t run the engine to try due to the fuel leaks, but I’m pretty certain it’ll be alright now.
    Thanks for the advice, it pointed me in the right direction.

    #37899

    wristpin
    Participant

    That’s good, as I suspected. The movement of the arm on the shaft is a basic setting, not an adjustment, meaning it’s either correct of incorrect – no partially correct. The usual procedure is as follows, but consult the workshop manual wherever possible.
    Slacken the clamp just enough to allow the shaft to be rotated. Then move the governor arm to give full throttle on the carb. Then holding the governor arm to maintain that position, turn the shaft fully in the same direction direction that gave full throttle and fully tighten the clamp.
    That will give the full governed speed for any throttle lever position. The principle is that when the engine is running the internal governor mechanism is always trying to close the throttle, that action is opposed by the throttle lever via the governor spring, the result being the governed speed.

    #37900

    sidevalve44
    Participant

    Thanks.

    After I get the new fuel tap etc. I’ll run her up and see how she performs and adjust as necessary.

    One thing I did notice when I ran it yesterday was how noisy it was, even with a new “silencer!” (Tiny little pepper pot thing with about one baffle !)

    #37901

    wristpin
    Participant

    If your tap has a “ gland nut” a fraction of a turn may cure the leak. Also it used to be possible to buy a new “ packing” for the spindle – similar to old plumbing taps. In the past I’ve effected a temporary repair using a bit of well greased starter cord as a packing.

    #37902

    sidevalve44
    Participant

    Hi Wristpin,

    Jon Cruse has advised he should have the parts to repair the fuel leak. I’m waiting on him for a price.
    Re. The governor. Am I correct in interpreting what you said as meaning, the governor should be holding the throttle wide open when the engine is not running ?
    I have since found out that the metal cover that goes over the top of the carb was fouling the operating rod from the governor arm and stopping it from moving. I’ve fixed that issue, I just need to reset the governor. I’ve noticed that the spindle is square so it is not possible to rotate the arm on it. The arm is attached to the spindle via a bracket and screw that can be slackened off to enable the position of the arm relative to the spindle to be altered.
    Most of my prior experience has been with B&S air governors, so this one is a new experience for me !

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