MG5. Track outer frame removal.

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This topic contains 49 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by  crawler 2 months, 2 weeks ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 50 total)
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  • #27552

    ransomes256
    Participant

    Iain,
    I went for CDS Thick wall hydraulic tube (also not cheap) in an attempt to reduce the overall machining required and avoiding the need to harden as it is pretty tough and will also work harden a little during use.
    I have costed the rollers at £1:75 each and the pins and nuts at £2.00 each which I am sure you would agree is a fair price when taking material cost and time into account.
    Just need to sell some now
    Neil

    #27553

    silverfoxfintry
    Participant

    Neil.

    If I had known you were getting a large batch made I would not have made my own!
    I have a Boxford AUD centre lathe. Not really designed for large batch production.
    Do you have access to a Turret Lathe?
    Also I opted to weld my spindles, rather than threading the ends and using nuts.
    Your prices are very reasonable, I know the labour involved.
    I have given some thought to lubracation of the rollers. In the end I used a liberal coating of Copper grease on the pins when I assembled the rollers.
    Time will tell if it asks any difference.

    All the best.

    Iain

    #27605

    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    Iain
    The track drive rollers are intended to run completely dry with no grease as this will retain grit and wear away the spindles, the manual instructs that if they become stuck with mud etc that you tap them with a hammer until free, not sure of the timespan of wear but if you are tracking distances pulling timber it may be significant.
    Jonathan

    #28337

    silverfoxfintry
    Participant

    Well.
    The rebuild is complete. But I can’t get the engine to start!
    I have checked everything.
    Valve timing, spark timing, carburettor, fuel pump. Everything I can think of.
    I think I am getting ingnition( the exhaust is getting warm). But It won’t run!
    Any help or suggestions!

    Thanks

    Iain

    #28342

    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    Patience , persistence and preferably a mate with a strong right arm and the heart of a lion !
    I have had similar experience which at the end of the day turned out to be either magneto or condenser related a tell tale plug from Neil is well worth the expense, shows if plug is sparking under compression. I have also found on the MG5 that the choke a nd throttle procedure is quite critical on cold starting, pull plug lead off, full choke turn the engine over a couple of times. Replace plug lead, no more than quarter throttle or less, turn over, if it fires move choke lever to second position. Once it starts do nothing for two minutes unless it is clear engine is over choked in this case lower the choke lever towards the off very slowly keeping the engine running. Do not attempt to slow the engine down or up until you are sure it is warm to hot usually about 5 minutes then start to slow throttle until you can engage drive( it will probably graunch )
    Hope that helps.
    Jonathan

    #28345

    silverfoxfintry
    Participant

    Well. After a very energetic and frustrating afternoon on Friday I went back to basics.
    Removed the cylinder head and checked both the valve and spark timing.
    The valve timing and clearance were spot on. But the ingnition timing was out a couple of degrees.
    Reset the timing and rebuilt the engine.
    Today I (very carefully) followed the book instructions on starting the engine.
    Being well rested and having had a good breakfast I think helped.
    It started! It ran at a steady 6to7 hundred RPM.
    JOY! Let it warm up and checked the oil return- plenty of flow.
    Engaged reverse and opened the throttle, the clutch engaged smoothly and I backed her out of the garage.
    I let her run for about 10 min and checked for leaks, all ok.
    However when the engine is running below 600rpm I have Petrol leaking from the Carburettor. I had checked the float valve and it looked OK, but the top of the brass float is a bit depressed in a couple of areas. It might require replacement.
    As far as I can find out this the first time she has run in 25 years.
    I will take some pictures tomorrow.
    Thanks to all who have offered help and advice.

    Regards

    Iain

    #28346

    ransomes256
    Participant

    Iain,
    Well done for getting another MG back and running.
    If the tractor was running on solid ground / concrete it is common for fuel to flood in the carburettor. The main reason for this is the stroke of the engine and no suspension. As the tractor bounces with engine stroke it knocks the float up and down and therefore the needle off the seat letting excess fuel in.
    It may still require the needle to be lapped in with Brasso or similar fine gritty polish or even a new needle which would still benefit from lapping in. If the float is dipped around the complete flat area I do have some extra long needles to compensate. Only suggest float replacement if it leaks.
    Neil

    #28356

    expeatfarmer
    Participant

    Well done Iain it has been a long haul and a lot of work but well worth the effort. Can you turn the float upside down or is it dented both ends?

    #28358

    silverfoxfintry
    Participant

    Thank you for your help and advice.

    The float is dented on both ends.
    I am ordering a longer needle from Neil.
    Apart from that, once I get it started it runs well.
    Starting is a pain.

    Have fun.

    Iain

    #28360

    will-haggle
    Participant

    Well done and what a saga! If you would like to send me the words and pictures of your efforts, it would make a good series for the Cultivator. On second thoughts don’t bother with the words, I can copy them from here! Email of the Cultivator is cultivator-editor@outlook.com just email JPEG’s or share them with me from the Onedrive…

    #28483

    silverfoxfintry
    Participant

    Well, I seem to have cracked the starting problem.
    When starting from cold. 1/2 choke, flood carb, remove HT lead. Open throttle about1/4.
    Turn over Twice. Replace HT lead. And give a hard, fast pull on the upstroke.
    Hot starting. 1/4 throttle. Pull over.
    I think that using full choke was flooding the cylinder.
    On another topic. Can anyone tell me the pitch of the tool bar lift chain.
    It had 1/2″ fitted. But this is wrong.
    Thanks.

    Iain

    #28484

    ransomes256
    Participant

    Iain,
    The chain is a 1″ extended pitch agricultural chain 30″ long.
    I do keep these.
    Neil

    #28487

    silverfoxfintry
    Participant

    I am going on Holiday for a couple of weeks. When I return I will order the chain and see about making a tool box.
    My unit hasn’t got the cover over the clutch fitted. If I am making a tool box I will have to make the cover as well. Can any kind person send me a picture and sizes?
    I have access to sheet metal tools.
    By the way. She started again today, first try!! So I think I have solved my starting problems.

    #28995

    silverfoxfintry
    Participant

    Well. I am back from my Holidays now and wanting to Mage the flywheel cover and tool box.
    Please can someone send me pictures?

    Thank you all.

    Attachments:
    #28999

    crawler
    Participant

    Hello
    I haven’t been active on here for a while and somehow missed your post when just browsing the forum. If you can wait until the weekend I can take some photos of my MG5 showing the cover and tool box.
    Well done on getting your MG up and running.
    Rob

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