Howard/Dowedswell 352 flywheel fitting

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This topic contains 5 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by  ali 1 week ago.

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  • #31226

    ali
    Participant

    Hello, I am new on here so apologies if I mess up my first post. I have recently got a Howard 352 rotovator. Its a later model I think with the slip pulley system clutch. I removed the flywheel eventually and have just replaced the old B&S 5hp engine and I am now finding the drive pulley/flywheel is now slipping slowly to the end of the engine drive shaft. I noticed due to it hitting the belt guide. The flywheel has a cone type fitting with four holes, two have allen grub screws and there is a small slit to the centre. I assumed the grub screws would tighten it but they don’t seem to make it tight enough. Can anyone point me in the direction of how to fit it tightly to stop it sliding on the drive shaft or perhaps I should use threadlock or something similar.
    Thanks
    Alasdair

    #31229

    chris
    Participant

    Hello Alasdair.
    I assume you are talking about a taper lock coupling as the method of holding the pulley.
    These are usually pretty good!

    Have you replaced the Briggs engine with anther Briggs or have you used an engine of another manufacturer?
    I was wondering if the shaft sizes are the same, in them both being imperial sizes, not a mixture of imperial and metric!

    Chris

    #31231

    ali
    Participant

    Hello Chris,
    Thanks I didn’t know it was called a taper lock coupling. I replaced the engine with a Loncin G200f-p as it was cheap so I could get the rotovator in action while I source a new exhaust valve for the Briggs. It is a Honda copy with a 3/4″ shaft which I checked and its correct. The engine fitted perfectly and has the same dimensions etc as the old Briggs. When I removed the flywheel I removed the allen grub screws but the flywheel was seized on and required some force to remove. I don’t think anything has been removed since new as when I changed gearbox oil I found the paint was still intact around the drain valve. The flywheel seemed tight when I replaced it but is tending to travel very slowly to the end of the shaft. I did also use the new key that came with the shaft which may be slightly different. It was longer but seemed to fit perfectly. Is there a special way of refitting using the two other holes in the coupling to tighten it before using the grub screws? As a last resort I was thinking of using a drop of thread lock on the shaft to see if it can hold it in place.
    Thanks
    Alasdair

    #31232

    charlie
    Keymaster

    If it is a taper lock this video shows how they fit.
    https://www.fptgroup.com/Taper-Lock-Bush-Installation-Video/

    #31236

    chris
    Participant

    hi Alasdair
    If you look closely at the coupling, two holes tighten it up and usually two holes just expand the taper lock to get it off, though frequently a blow with a hammer is needed to get it started!
    At 3/4 inch to metric there is very little difference in size I was thinking of 1 inch shaft to 25 mm.
    If you go down the liquid lock route then I would suggest you choose carefully, thread lock doesn’t always set hard and would perhaps not be the best.
    There are lots of different loctite bonds , bearing lock or gap fill or similar might be better. Suggest google?
    But beware some will need heat (blowtorch) to dismantle again later!

    Chris

    #31242

    ali
    Participant

    Many thanks Chris and Charlie. On having a closer look I discovered that the shaft was slightly greasy and very smooth and shiny. I gave it a light rub with fine wet and dry and cleaned it and the coupling etc with solvent. Put the flywheel back on and seems to be a lot tighter. I watched the video link and used a socket and hammer to drive the coupling home and retightened the grub screws. So far its ok. I did notice a hairline crack in the coupling but it wasnt at the holes for the grubscrews. Will probably try and source a new one in case it fails.
    Many thanks again
    Alasdair

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