Howard Rotovator transmission repair

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This topic contains 11 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by  transman05 6 months, 1 week ago.

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  • #28494

    transman05
    Participant

    I’m tackling a new venue these days. I have a 1940s “The Gem” that has broken something in the transmission. My first queery is…. what is necessary to remove the right hand cover plate to view the damage? I already have the wheel off, and curious how much force should be needed to remove the wheel hub from the splines. Also, is in necessary to lay machine on it’s side to prevent scattered parts when I remove the side cover.
    Thanks in advance for any help.
    Dan

    #28496

    charlie
    Keymaster

    The axle shaft is not splined but does have key in a keyway, it should come off using a hub puller. You can remove gearbox side cover without any parts falling out. Other members with more detailed knowledge will be able to give more information.

    #28497

    transman05
    Participant

    Charlie, thanks for the response. The wheel drive flange has what look like 8 approx 1/4″ splines in it that match to the same on the “shaft”. I see a much smaller dia piece inside of that too, but since the wheels turn independent of each other when in neutral, I thought perhaps they are driven individually as well. This brings me to my next question……what is the fastener type on these machines? Metric? Wentworth? or another? The wheel studs seem to measure just under 13mm and I believe 2.00 pitch. I need to determine this to get longer studs to use with a T-bar puller.
    Cheers!
    Dan

    #28498

    roatavator
    Participant

    Hi Dan
    I used to have a Hatz Diesel Gem. Never did any major work to it, but there’s a manual here you may find useful if you haven’t already got it. Good luck!
    Peter

    https://www.allotment-garden.org/rotavator-manuals/Howard-Gem-Service-Repair-Manual.pdf

    #28505

    transman05
    Participant

    Charlie I owe you an apology. Finally got a few minutes to look closer at “the Machine”. What look like splines or keyways are merely rather evenly spaced flashing flaws from the casting process, Im guessing. Sorry about the confusion, but I am new to this type of old design and structure.
    thanks again for your interest.
    Dan

    #28506

    transman05
    Participant

    Wow, thanks loads, Peter! Just getting started and only done some preliminary research for help books. This is great.

    • This reply was modified 7 months ago by  transman05.
    #28508

    roatavator
    Participant

    You’re welcome Dan.
    Always good to find manuals on the net for free!
    Peter

    #28521

    transman05
    Participant

    So…. Ive removed the side cover, and what did I find? Four balls missing out of the bearing at the starter crank end of the jacksahft. And some deep impressions in the bull gear idler gear. Ouch! These are some tough gears. Next step will be to remove the axle shaft assembly and see what’s behind it, lying on the bottom of the case.
    Anyone know where best to go for gaskets and parts as needed?

    #28605

    simon9272
    Participant

    Hi,if it’s any help I have 2 gems for spares,let me know what you need

    #28612

    ted20
    Participant

    what part of the country are you located? I have a spare gearbox if you are stuck

    #28627

    transman05
    Participant

    Simon and Ted, thanks for the replies. Yes I will need some trans parts. I have emailed a chap in UK and waiting for his response to my actual parts search. I used his online parts catalog so I have the original part #s from that. I’m in the US, on the West coast so anyone stateside would be great.
    Dan

    #28639

    transman05
    Participant

    Simon,
    It looks like Ill have to out-source the combo nut/pilot bearing for the rear flywheel on this Wisconsin. Any ideas?
    Dan

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